Before we get into what we know now, let's talk about what we knew. We knew that the 5711 would be discontinued, and the 5990/1A, aka the Travel Time Chronograph in steel, along with it. That watch had a distinctive grey dial that separated it somewhat from the blue hue of the 5711 and the 5712 (more on that reference in a moment). And then it disappeared, vanishing like Marty McFly's hand in the middle of Earth Angel. But every film has a happy ending, and so too does the 5990/1A as today Patek announces its rebirth…in steel…and a blue dial.
This is in tandem with news of a new reference, the 41mm Nautilus 5811, also with a blue dial. But that one's in white gold. In all, there's really not a whole lot of difference between the outgoing steel 5990 and the incoming model aside from the dial color, which Patek describes as having a "radiant sunburst finish and a subtle black gradation to the periphery."
The Patek Philippe self-winding caliber CH 28-520 C FUS remains at the heart of this 41.5mm piece of steel, providing three complications by way of a flyback chronograph, Travel Time (allowing for two time zones with two separate hour hands where the skeletonized hand shows home time), and analog date functionality (at 12 o'clock, which is synchronized with local time). This steely blue stunner will set the buying hopeful back $68,603.
Next in the line of newness is a big chunk of integrated solid rose gold known as the 40mm Nautilus ref. 5712/1R-001. This new rose gold variation of the 5712 reference comes with a brown sunburst dial and a black gradation. Again, this is a riff on a recognizable model in new precious metal form and new dial coloration, and it will retail for $82,796.
No feast is complete without a baguette. In the case of the ref. 7118/1300R-001 Nautilus Joaillerie, we get 68 baguette-cut diamonds (that's a lot of bread) dished up on a healthy helping of rose gold watch. With the bezel on this one, you get a two-color gradation with cognac-colored stones at 12 and six o'clock, and champagne-colored stones at nine and three o'clock. But it doesn't end there. On the dial sit eleven ogive-shaped, cognac-colored spessartites which serve as the hour markers, and inside beats the Patek self-winding caliber 324 S C movement visible through a sapphire caseback. And even with all those diamonds, this 7118 also carries a retail price tag of $82,796, like the ref. 5712/1R-001.
Patek is operating a lot like Marvel after the film Avengers: Infinity War. We thought our favorite characters were snapped out of existence, and then nearly a year later they're snapped right back – well, sort of. Of course, these aren't the same watches we bid farewell to earlier this year. For one thing, we are still missing a core steel Nautilus. But that's what makes this new, steel, blue dial 5990 so appealing. It's a souped-up version of that watch with the complication trifecta of dual-time, chronograph, and analog date. In many ways, this is the steel Nautilus showpiece, the true functional tool watch (albeit one with a retail price of nearly $70k).
Of this trio, this is the standout watch for me. In fact, it's more of a standout than the 5811. There's just something extra about it, something more utilitarian and the non-precious package just accentuates that fact for me. Add in that its initial discontinuation was something of a footnote behind the 5711, and I think it deserves the lion's share of attention today. But that's just me. Again, there's not a whole lot more to report on this one. The movement remains, as does the complication and its capability to track two time zones via push buttons on the nine o'clock side of the case. It's just that now it looks a whole lot more Nauti (I'm abbreviating Nautilus and trying to make it sound like the word naugh – you know what, forget it) because of the blue dial color.
Moving on to the 5712/1R-001, I can't say that I have a whole lot more to say than "ROSE GOLD!" It's about as rosy and warm as a Nautilus can get, and I'm actually very into the tone-on-tone design choice of case, bracelet, and dial. In fact, the brown sunburst dial contrasts really well against the red and blue accents throughout. Prior to this release, the only rose gold 5712 model available on the market was on a brown leather strap with a dark black-brown dial. I like the cohesiveness of the full gold and lighter brown sunburst. And while I won't be shelling out the cash for this one now, or maybe ever, I can still appreciate it from afar.
I am sort of drooling over the 68-baguette set diamonds on the 7118/1300R-001. I mean, come on – just look at it. The 7118 reference range is something of a breeding ground for bling, but I find this to be a really tastefully done timepiece with a color gradation that compliments the rose gold. Patek has this positioned in its ladies' collection, though I must say that you can count me in for a 35.2mm Nautilus any day of the week. I would have no issue wearing this piece although I don't think I am fashionable enough in any other facet of my life to pull it off. But maybe that starts here, maybe this 7118 is the Nautilus to turn things around for me. First, I need to find $82k. Be right back.
Brand: Patek Philippe
Reference Number: 5990/1A, 5712/1R-001, and 7118/1300R-001
Diameter: 40.5mm (5990/1A), 40mm (5712/1R-001), 35.2mm (7118/1300R-001)
Thickness: 12.53mm (5990/1A), 8.52mm (5712/1R-001), 8.62mm (7118/1300R-001)
Case Material: Steel (5990/1A), rose gold (5712/1R-001 and 7118/1300R-001)
Dial Color: Blue (5990/1A), brown (5712/1R-001), champagne (7118/1300R-001)
Indexes: Applied (5990/1A and 5712/1R-001), ogive-shaped, cognac-colored spessartites (7118/1300R-001)
Water Resistance: 120m (5990/1A), 60m (5712/1R-001 and 7118/1300R-001)
Strap/Bracelet: Integrated bracelet
Caliber: CH 28‑520 C FUS (5990/1A), 240 PS IRM C LU (5712/1R-001), 324 S C (7118/1300R-001)
Functions: Flyback chronograph. Central chronograph hand. 60-minute counter. Two time zones: local and home time indication. Day/night indication for local time and home time in apertures. Date coupled with local time by hand (5990/1A), hours, minutes, seconds, date (7118/1300R-001), hours, minutes, small seconds, moonphase, date, power reserve indicator (5712/1R-001)
Chronometer Certified: No